The device you pick shapes everything that follows. For a permanent setup you can rely on, hardwired units usually win. They are built to integrate with vehicle systems and run continuously with no battery to think about.

• Features. Live tracking, geofence alerts and trip history cover the basics. Driver reports and engine diagnostics go further.
• Reviews. Retail ratings and owner forums show how a device holds up in service, rather than on a spec sheet.
• Support. A device that goes quiet on a Friday needs somebody who answers on a Friday.
• Compatibility. Confirm the tracker's voltage range matches the vehicle, especially on 24-volt trucks.

Your power source matters more than most people expect. Aim for something constant, unaffected by whether the ignition is on. Tapping the battery is the safest bet, and the supply near the steering column works too.

• Voltage match. Confirm the tracker's requirements line up with the vehicle's system.
• Fuse the tap. An add-a-fuse holder protects the circuit and the tracker both.
• Secure connections. Loose wires cause faults later, so lock everything down.
• Keep wires clear. Route cables away from heat, moving parts and airbag components.

Disconnect the negative battery cable before you touch anything. That single step protects you and the vehicle's electronics.

This is where installs go wrong. Two separate sets of wires are involved and they follow different rules. Keep them straight before you cut anything.

• The tracker's own harness is standardized by the manufacturer. Red for power, black for ground, and usually white or yellow for the ignition sense.
• The vehicle's wiring is not standardized at all. Colors change between makes, models and even model years. The tracker's code tells you nothing about the car's.

Never match a vehicle wire to a tracker wire by color alone. Probe it with a multimeter and confirm what it actually does first.

Getting the joints right matters more than any other step here. A poor connection works on the bench and fails three weeks later on a rough road.

• Tracker red to a constant 12-volt supply, so the unit runs around the clock.
• Tracker black to a clean chassis ground or the vehicle's ground wire.
• Tracker ignition wire to a circuit that only carries power once the key is on.
• Crimp or solder, then insulate with heat-shrink tubing rather than leaving bare metal.

Crimping is the easier route. Strip both ends, slide them into the connector until they meet, then squeeze it shut with a crimping tool. Soldering gives a more permanent bond if you would rather go that way.

If the mounting spot sits far from the power source, an extension cable closes the gap. Route it carefully rather than taking the shortest line.

• Steer clear of moving parts such as the steering mechanism and seat rails
• Keep well away from hot surfaces near the engine or exhaust
• Zip tie the run so nothing dangles or catches
• Leave a little slack at each end rather than pulling the cable tight

With the wiring done, find a discreet spot. Under the dashboard or behind the glove compartment usually works, and both stay shielded from the weather.

• Avoid metal barriers. Large metal panels above the device block the signal.
• Face the antenna up toward the sky where the design allows it.
• Double-sided tape. Fast and simple, on a surface cleaned first.
• Zip ties. Sturdier if the unit has mounting holes, looped to a harness or bracket.

Reconnect the battery and confirm the tracker reports its position before you put the trim back. Testing with the dash apart is far easier than testing after.

A dash cam pairs well with a tracker if you want another layer. The tracker tells you where the vehicle went, the camera tells you what happened around it.

• Wire it to the same power source as the tracker
• Mount it on the dashboard or high on the windshield
• Keep the lens clear of wiper blind spots
• Check your state's rules on windshield-mounted devices